Tag Archives: Nepal

Patan, Bhaktapur and Khokana – Nepal

Our group stopped at a school on the way back towards the Kathmandu Valley to inspect some of the more earthquake affected towns of 2015. The school children at Ketaaketi gave us not just a tour of their class rooms, but showed us their talent as dancers too! I know I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, but please give some of your excess stationery items such as pens and paper as it’s always greatly appreciated to any school you may wish to offer them.

Visiting earthquake ravaged places such as Khokana which is a traditional Newari village, people went about their daily business as best they could considering the amount of damage which had been caused.

Buildings in need of repair are very slowly being reconstructed. Unfortunately, the community cannot afford to pay for the heavy machinery and skilled labour needed to remove the rubble.

Goats always seem happy no matter where they are, there should be more people like goats – maybe that’s why Aries is my compatible star sign? They seem to have a natural curiosity like this fella.

Ladies were also involved in the heavy workload in shifting debris from some of the temples which were destroyed and hopefully enough funding will be forthcoming to restore them.

Ladies hand weaving carpets at a Tibetan Refugee Camp which allows them to earn an income as their skills are highly sought after for the creation of magnificent woven rugs which are offered to the international market.

Exquisite rugs on display of hand-knotted wool and silk  – a purchase of a life time.

Time for lunch, more yummy Nepalese food.

So many well-made handicrafts makes choosing difficult and it’s best to declare these coming back into Australia as wooden items are subject to scrutiny. Wouldn’t be too happy losing one of these to Customs.

As you walk along the streets, you’ll find dozens of masterful wood carvers and sculptors offering you handcrafted items at bargain prices. Most of them work from home and they may even offer you other articles for sale as well.

Mmm look very much like mushrooms on steroids, wonder if they’re magic ones?

Pottery being made by this family for over six decades at Bhaktapur.

Staying at a Buddhist Monastery Guest-house in the peaceful location of Neydo Tashi Choeling was a highlight of our journey with Australian tour operator Crooked Compass.

At 5:00 am the bell rings for the monks to wake and make their way to the main hall to chant for about one and half hours for world peace. As well as prayers of aspiration and longevity, they are offered to the upholders of the Dharma.

At nearby Patan it’s a time to reflect at the Pashupatinath Temple  which is a famous sacred Hindu temple and located on the banks of the Bagmati River, 5 kilometres north-east of the Kathmandu Valley.

We were honoured to witness the ongoing celebration and cremation of many Nepalese people who have just recently passed on.

Cows meandering around oblivious to the crowds who gather here daily to observe the ritualistic cremations.

Take a front-row seat along the Bagmati River for a full viewing …

Cremation Ghats of the Pashupatinath Temple and at the holy Bagmati River (which is a tributary of the Ganges River), a funeral fire was already burning as we arrived in the late afternoon. 

The Ghats in essence, welcomed families carrying cloth-shrouded bodies on stretchers and prepared them for the formality whereby each was carefully unwrapped. Then, the bodies in turn had their feet washed in the river water and laid on a prepared pyre – all the while prayers from the family members being said to the lost loved one. At the top of the Ghats were stacks of wood where families of the deceased had arranged for the cremation.

Shown here, the Aarti is the magnificent event during the evening as it allows you to experience the great act and fills you with inherit spiritual thoughts, particularly of your own mortality. All the priests who perform the Aarti wear the same cloth and perform with the same brass lamps which are accompanied with the customary mantra chant. And, in the presence of a huge crowd who is also gaining momentum in dancing and singing along, it’s mesmerising and almost hypnotic.

The true heart of Nepalese culture is seen during the many festivals that are held in the country. The multitude of different religions and sects that are present in the country lead to more festivals than days of the year. There may be celebrations throughout the country, in a city, or in a village of a single neighbourhood  and family. These are moments to unite the people, even if apparent to different castes or ethnic groups which share the same values ​​and prayers together for the good and happiness in the future.

The dates of the festival changes, as most of them is linked to lunar cycles and Buddhist, Hindu or Nepalese calendars and they do not correspond to the Gregorian calendar.

Smiley faces of the Nepalese makes you want to return in the future without doubt … Namaste!

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Panauti, Nepal

When you first arrive in Panauti you might think it’s one big dust bowl, but then all of a sudden the air settles, we heard women singing – then offering us floral necklaces and dressed in beautiful exquisite saris; they had arrived in a timely manner to meet us and had welcomed our group whole heartedly.

The town is approximately 32 kms southeast of Kathmandu. Panauti is quaint and a truly interesting destination to visit for those seeking a quieter alternative. It feels as if it’d been left exactly the way the founders had built it in the 13th century. It’s a real gem and one of the oldest places in Nepal which is steeped in culture and tradition.

Lisa being greeted by one of the organisers of our Community Homestay which is run by Women for the Women. Currently there are 16 ladies involved in the Homestay Project which empower them to become involved in tourism and hospitality which in turn allows them to give travellers an authentic and interactive experience with a local family.

At the Community Centre we’re offered light refreshments before being taken to our respective homes for a two-night stay and experience how a Nepalese family goes about their daily lives.

And if it means helping out with some washing – well, better throw some of mine in too!

And as luck would have it, our host family was located near some of the oldest temples and monuments, not just in Panauti, but all of Nepal.

There are some fabulous ancient temples which have stood the test of time, partly because of Panauti’s legendary resistance to earthquakes. This certainly held true during the 2015 earthquake, when the town escaped with minor ‘abrasions’.

Along the river is the most concentrated number of temples to visit. Panauti, consists of a variety of Buddhist and Hindu religious edifices and is considered to be one of the area’s most important medieval sites.

Triveni Ghat is located at the confluence of the Punyamata Khola (river) and the Lilawati (or Roshi) Khola. A third river, the invisible Padmabati river is said to join these two.

A 15-minute climb north-east takes you to Gorakhnath Hill (2,000 ft) from where one absorbs an overall view of the fish-shaped town as well as panoramic views of the region.

There’s no shortage of goats hanging around and I’m glad, they’re so naughty and always make me laugh, except when they chew on something they’re not suppose to!

Another means of transport and carriage of goods.

Ready for work.

Walking around the township and a simple nod acknowledges a friendliness from the locals –  it’s time for a break.

So what happens when you find a cool spot to sit down and watch the world go by? You meet a small girl and another Mum who were happy to chat and have their photo taken. And just as you think you’re going to rest up after climbing the ‘huge’ hill earlier in the morning – then just hang around whilst my group have gone off trekking, I gladly ended up spending the rest of the day with my new-found friends showing me another view of the town’s fascinating aspects.

But firstly to check if the outside world still exists … I mean really? How many westerners would offer you their computer to try and check your emails over at their shop? Apparently there are designated times for the power to come on and then go off with a schedule being made available.

Here’s where we meet Rajan who’s a teacher at the Shree Panuati Lower Secondary School. Being Saturday they aren’t at school, but it’s their only day off in the week and then it’s back to the business of learning on Sunday and work for others.

Rajan at the Gyan Bikas Community Library with his younger siblings; it’s considered the only library in the world located within a World Heritage site. I’d been shown around the library and found it quite impressive as there’s more than 100 people (on average) who visit the library each day. The facilities are a place of interest for children, women, youth and adults for learning and sharing. There’s a dedicated Women’s section to those who are pregnant in giving them maternal advice and support.

And at the end of the day, it was interesting to watch at the Barber’s shop people having a haircut and trim up which was probably around the equivalent of A0.50 cents …

Chitwan National Park, Nepal

Ready, set, go and we’re off now to Chitwan National Park in the southern region of Nepal. It’s a quick flight of about 40 minutes or so to Pokhara and then a bus transfer to our resort.

The region is quite flat and perhaps, naturally you’d think all of Nepal is of mountainous terrain and needing to be climbed somehow! But, here in the south, seemingly endless fields are sown with the staple diet of rice. In altitude it ranges from about 100 metres (330 ft) in the river valleys to 815 metres (2,674 ft) in the Churia Hills.

Out of interest, South Base Camp at Mt Everest in Nepal is an altitude of 5,364 metres (17,598 ft) and North Base Camp is in Tibet at 5,150 metres (16,900 ft)

It’s a bit of a bumpy ride to the Lodgings, but no one’s complaining – just enjoying really warm weather of late August as it’s freezing back home.

We did enjoy a ride by way of buffalo and cart later on and there’s quite a number of them around.

Our lodging for two nights is at the Barahi Jungle Lodge whereby free-standing ‘huts’ give privacy to the guests and a sense of intimacy.

Beautifully presented, clean and smart, all accommodations types are air conditioned and offer superb views  of the river and the natural surrounds.  And this being the lead-in category, everyone’s very happy with the choice made by Crooked Compass.

One of the highlights of the day is seeing Rani being fed a snack by her Mahout. He will care for an elephant and be their trainer, rider and keeper after he is assigned one chosen early in its life. They remain bonded to each other throughout their lives.

Why bother having a shower when you arrive, we’ve all taken off to the river with the elephants and their handlers.

In turn, the big fellas are been given a scrub down and readied for our safari later in the day.

After a snack and wash, we’re now part of the elephant safari alongside the river’s edge. If you’re seeking a less expensive alternative to Africa’s safaris and packages, without doubt you might want to consider Nepal as an option – especially Chitwan National Park being part of the ‘Soul of Nepal’ tour.

The cooler afternoon made for some great photos as the light was constantly changing with some rhinos being spotted.

This old boy is used to the elephants coming near and it seems to be a rite of passage to let us go along our way and continue sightseeing.

By the end of the 1960s, 70% of Chitwan’s jungles were cleared using DDT, thousands of people had settled there and only 95 rhinos remained. The dramatic decline of the rhino population and the extent of poaching prompted the government to institute the Gaida Gasti – a rhino reconnaissance patrol of 130 armed men and a network of guard posts all over Chitwan. To prevent the extinction of rhinos the Chitwan National Park was gazetted in December 1970, with borders delineated the following year and established in 1973, initially encompassing an area of 544 km2 (210 sq miles).

Sunsets are just stunning here and it’s been a full day but, so worth every minute to see and experience this place first hand.

Next day out, we’re taken by one of the Lodge’s own guides to show us a small part around the huge 360 square miles of tall grasslands and forestation whereby it’s home to an abundance of mammals and birdlife, some of which are endangered species.


I can’t think of anything better than having men make breakfast, somewhere out there in the wilderness – just like nature intended – on the banks of two rivers meeting for us to enjoy watching its ebb and flow. And these guys doing some preparation for our yummy meal.

Next day we’re all up early and off to the other side of the river for a walking trek through the forest. Here with Nina, Brownie, Tom and Lisa without our morning coffee fix,  but that’s all been taken care of when we return …

Trekking through the forest which is one of Asia’s premier wildlife reserves, we’re taking in an early morning of fresh air and uninterrupted views of this delightful park’s surroundings.

Heading back to our canoe with the resort shown in the distance, we’ll have our breakfast there ready for us.

However, later in the day we had the privilege of canoeing on the Narayani-Rapti river system. Perfect scenery for quiet reflection and diversion of life’s everyday hustle and bustle.

And with that, we’ll have some canapés and drinks on the river’s edge watching the sun set for another day in this superb location.

Next day we head onto Panauti after a flight back to Kathmandu. Could’ve stayed here much longer and absorbed the natural settings of a prized and protected national park. Simply delightful.

Kathmandu, Nepal – Part Two

We’re travelling with Lisa Pagotto (left) who is the Aussie Founder and CEO of Crooked Compass which was launched back in May 2014. Lisa and her team are committed to sharing inspirational travel ideas and expert knowledge specialising in small group touring. Here with travel writer Nina Karnikowski who have both just met up with a local and, he’s obviously taken a liking to Lisa’s coconut body butter scent …

Little fellas like this one are seen frequently and are held in high regard due to religious beliefs of the Hindu faith – so no need to worry, he’s safe.

There’s a plethora of temples, pagodas and monuments dating back from the 12th Century and are generally in close proximity to the most notable heritage-listed sites. Walking around Kathmandu is a sensory overture and one of which the camera doesn’t take a break in case you miss something.

Looks very much like a door of wisdom which has seen much and thankfully after the devastation of the 2015 earthquake, there were many pieces salvaged and readied for repair at the Royal Palace.

Carefully pieced together and tagged to ensure it be replaced in its original form and place.

Not taking too many risks in having the structures become any more unstable, there’s a multitude of scaffolding around to maintain the support structures.

While there are several Kumaris throughout Nepal and some cities having several; the best known is the Royal Kumari of Kathmandu. At the tender age of ten, she lives here in the Kumari Ghar which is a palace in the centre of the city.  Briefly materialising at this window in the Living Goddess Temple, she appears at the same time each day to visitors who marvel at her presence and then hasty retreat.

In Nepal, a Kumari is a pre-pubescent girl selected from the Shakya Caste or Bajracharya clan of the Nepalese Newari community and once menstruation begins, she is no longer a Goddess. The onerous selection process begins again for a young girl not yet aged four years to replace her.

The Princess’s photo was shown to us by way of a postcard, otherwise photographs were not permitted to be taken by tourists – even if you could press the shutter in the brief time she emerged.

Upon closer inspection, you can see the intricate workmanship of the wood used throughout the palace and this particular temple.

Guards keep a watchful eye over visitors. You can be forgiven in thinking he was a wax model …

Here is where Raj told us the story about the Nepalese Royal Massacre which occurred on 1st June, 2001 at the house in the grounds of the Narayanhity Royal Palace. Ten members of the Royal family including the King and Queen who were killed during a monthly reunion dinner of the family.

Walking around the buildings of the Royal Palace you can see the scale of the architecture and witness just how valuable its grand design and craftsmanship really is – and so worthy of restoration after the earthquake.

All that walking around allows us an invitation into one of the small restaurants and gaze over Kathmandu’s skyline.

Time for a snack and I know one of them is a kind of intestinal delicacy – but I’m not saying which one …

After heading down to the Boudanath Stupor, we found ourselves admiring yet another incredible structure and place of ancient worship.

Built some time around the 14th century, the huge meditative monument is said to have been created just after the passing of the Buddha. The huge offering site quickly become a focal point of worship in the area. The structure of the building consists of a giant dome, whereby on the top sits a Buddhist pyramid tower.

Some insight for those not familiar with the teachings.

We climbed to the top of the building opposite with a bird’s-eye view of this magnificent complex – the massive mandala makes it one of the largest spherical Stupas in Nepal.
The influx of large populations of refugees from Tibet has seen the construction of over 50 Tibetan Gompas (Monasteries) around Boudhanath. As of 1979, Boudhanath also became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Along with Swayambhunath, it’s one of the most popular tourist sites in the Kathmandu area.

You can also light candles and take some time out to reflect regardless of your faith or beliefs.

Thereafter, our group was allowed to partake in a ceremony whereby as individuals, we were presented with our own recital by one of the monks who in their own way was a blessing.

We’re told that during the days surrounding full moons, the air is often thick with incense and mantras sung by monks,  the number of people visiting this Stupa increases significantly along with the intensity of their mantras and prayers.

And, once finished saying our prayers and promising to be better people, we’re heading off for some retail therapy … Mandala Street Bazaar is a tourist hot spot and mecca for shopping.

Here is where you’re going to find some great bargains, regardless of the fact it’s a touristy area, don’t forget when bargaining it’s not always big dollars you’re negotiating … Just do it and pay the money – stop haggling over 25 cents.

Next post we’re off to Chitwan National Park, probably need an elephant to help carry some of these goods around.

Kathmandu, Nepal – Part One

Flying into Kathmandu (KTM), Nepal with Korean Airlines was a seven and half-hour journey from Seoul and the stopover there being a welcomed break. No visa is required for Australians stopping in South Korea.

My very friendly Immigration Officer was happy to pose for me and extremely helpful with our entry into the country.

However, in regards to Nepal it’s possible to apply for a visa upon arrival at the airport and the cost is USD25.00 cash (no cards), with applications given on board the aircraft, you can fill it out and be ready. Just need to pay with US dollars at a designated counter before proceeding to Immigration. Otherwise, if you prefer a visa prior, it can be obtained before leaving Australia (or any other National might wish to check with their own country’s requirements). Information given here was correct at the time of writing this post.

Like most travel plans, the unexpected will always happen and it’s best to go along with the flow and accept Nepal does the best it can, when it can. If you think this country is going to be a ‘box of chocolates’ forget it.  For it’s about doing the best you’re able to do – with the best you have – learning that the less materialistic goods you have in life, may actually be a better way. Not to mention enlightening you on a different level – both physically and mentally! Less baggage sounds about right to me, just have to put it into practice now – especially leaving Nepal with less than what I came with …

I know – give all the old stuff away and make space for the goodies to take home.

The country’s beauty and rawness make it a drawcard for travellers and tourists alike, to visit and experience its friendly people, and perhaps it helps seekers find their  inner self, thus creating prosperity in their own life’s journey. Just remember, it’s not always about you. The captivating  culture of the people here is contagious … Be warned!

An example of a true faithful and following thereafter his famous ascent of Mt Everest, Kiwi mountain climber Edmund Hillary devoted most of his life to helping the Sherpa people of Nepal through the  Himalayan Trust which he founded. Through his efforts, many schools and hospitals were built in Nepal.

Unlike many of the other trekkers who visit the better-known Base Camp and beyond, with this trip our group is visiting the southern region of the country to experience hiking, swimming and an elephant safari – just to name a few of the activities planned ahead.

With our guide Raj who has lived here all his life, we have the pleasure of his first-hand knowledge and wisdom to keep us enthralled with his never-ending stories and anecdotes.

Raj being our guide with boutique operator from Australia, Crooked Compass (of which our group is touring ‘The Soul of Nepal’), he too believes in immersing the traveller deep into the culture while protecting its immediate environment to ensure its systematic conditions and values are not implicated.

Beautifully packaged and healthy food choices make it clear there’s not too many obese people in Nepal that’s for certain. It’s simply grown and sold without all the preservatives.

When was the last time you bought pomegranates by weight? Makes for that delicious, refreshing drink when the heat has been turned up somewhat since our arrival.

Nepalese people make extensive use of spices such as turmeric, coriander, cilantro – the leaf of the coriander plant, pepper, timmur – a unique Himalayan pepper, cumin, chilies and mustard. Who needs additives in their food other than these kinds of flavour enhancers?

Not much in the way of refrigerators … Just letting you know.

Anyway, might be time become a vegetarian … Heaps more choices.

This is one place you’ll be carefully consider your baggage on the way home. Possibly the nicest souvenir ever made is a Singing Bowl. Made of metal its rim is rubbed in a circular motion by a small wooden stick to produce a low/high pitch sound. Aside from the sound the theory behind the singing bowl is that the sound causes a vibration in the air which has healing qualities. If you come across a very large singing bowl, have the vendor make it sing next to your stomach and feel the vibrations run through you.

There are basically two types; machine and hand made. The latter is more scarce and expensive and is usually a plain brass colour with a beaten quality about them.

Told you, it won’t be easy leaving without some additional bits and pieces.

Three-wheeler rickshaws can be hailed off the street, though it might be a bit difficult to find after sundown. The charge for a metred taxi is Rupee 7 at the initial flag down and then add Rs. 2 for every 200 metres and for the tempos, it starts with Rs. 3. There is an extra 50% charge from 9:00 pm to 6:00 am.

I’m certain I didn’t see pigeon on any menus … they’re everywhere. No need to feed them.

And of course, not only Kathmandu but the whole of the country is filled with shrines, temples and sacred sites, almost all of which are UNESCO World Heritage protected.

Prayers being offered in the main Durbar Square. With a multiplicity of beliefs, Nepal has several cults, gods and goddesses which co-exist with the major religions. In its long cultural history, the country has always remained a land of religious harmony and perhaps one of the many reasons it’s a place you can feel safe to travel around.

A prayer wheel is a cylindrical wheel on a spindle made from metal, wood, stone, leather or coarse cotton. Traditionally, the mantra Om Mani Padme Hum is written in Sanskrit on the outside of the wheel. Traditionally they are used to accumulate wisdom and merit (good karma) and to purify negativities (bad karma).

A truly mooooving experience. Moo to you too!

Hinduism is well and truly alive in Nepal and a cow is considered equal to one’s own mother and their slaughter or consumption is considered offensive. They are happy to wander around and enjoy the petting they’re given by locals and visitors.

Our accommodation for a couple of nights is at the Gokarna Forest Resort which is set on 470 acres within the Forest Reserve and just on the outskirts from the city centre. By the end of day one, it was great to relax in this delightful property and simply walk around viewing the lovely gardens, birdlife and extensive golf course.