Category Archives: Scandinavia

Visiting Santa Claus in Lapland, Finland.

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Heading back towards Copenhagen, Denmark the ICE is just about to be driven onto the ship for the next part of this journey. The fare is included on the Eurail Pass at no additional cost for this particular day’s travel.

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The Intercity Express (ICE) sitting tightly on board whilst all passengers must go off the train whereby they can sit and eat, walk around or buy duty free during the crossing. Only need to take personal belongings and the luggage stays locked within.

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We’re now coming off the ship and very close to Malmo, Sweden.

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Look really cute ‘eh? Glad he didn’t like the smell of my luggage …

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I overnighted in Malmo as it was a little too late for another four hours to Stockholm. Here at the station you can watch moving images on the walls and quite intriguing.

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Heading through Sweden now and onto Stockholm for an overnight ferry crossing to Helsinki which is where the Santa Claus Express departs from.

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Glad I travelled by train the next day – just so beautiful to see first hand.

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Snowing quite heavily but it’s not something I see each Christmas and I’m really enjoying the view. Nice and cosy in the train I’ll admit …

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Once in Stockholm it’s an easy transfer down to the port on bus 53. The ferry crossing with Viking Lines to Helsinki does not allow you free passage with your Eurail Pass, but it’s a saving of 30% when you book.

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Once on board this Santa is into everything; fashion parades, chatting up the ladies, consoling all the crying kiddies and generally having a fab time.

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The buffet was just delectable, with so many choices and at 38 Euro exceptional value and included beer and wine. I asked how much wine you could have, and promptly told as much as you like … In Aussie terms, how long can a piece of string be?

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Now at Helsinki main train station waiting for the Santa Claus Express to arrive.

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The train will let us off at Rovaniemi which is the official home town of Santa Claus. The journey overnight took just under 13 hours and smooth as.

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To book the first-class cabins you must use a day of your first-class Eurail Pass and the additional cost is approximately 94 Euro per person based on a twin cabin with private facilities.

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On our way and yes I’m snug in bed as it’s snowing well and truly outside.

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Superb ride all the way and woke refreshed to find we had arrived at Rovaniemi.

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Bus number 8 will take us to Santa’s office at the Village and is where the Arctic Circle crosses through.

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I told Santa I’d especially come to visit him and he asked to send Greetings to everyone ‘Down Under’ as he knew it’d had been quite hot there. I also told him I’d be returning home to Sydney on Christmas Day from London as this was now one of the last parts of my trip in Europe.

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I now have my official stamp and it’s time to return to Helsinki, but this time I’ll fly to London before making the trek back.

Merry Christmas to everyone and may 2015 be a joyous and prosperous year for everyone. A big ‘thank you’ to all the people along the way who have made the journey one of the most memorable I’ve ever encountered.

Oslo to Copenhagen

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Beautiful fields of gold – coming from Oslo to Gotenborg Sweden

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A change of train in Gotenborg and onto Copenhagen for a night to break up the journey.

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Crossing the Oresund Bridge after coming through the underwater tunnel at Malmo.
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Watching a freighter at sea from Copenhagen Airport and waiting for the local train to the city centre.

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Time to relax and ponder the next day’s trip to Lubeck Germany.

Oslo in a Day

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Ski Jump and Museum at Holmenkollen which is a 20 minute train ride to visit. Daily tickets in Zone 1 valid for 24 hours at NOK90 per adult.

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Looking out over the Ski Jump area at Holmenkollen – very popular with locals and visitors from abroad. Thanks for the tip – from Simon friend living in Oslo.

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Holmenkollen Station on the line and direction of Frognerseteren

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The Holmenkollen Park Hotel Rica

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Sunset overlooking the sea from Holmenkollan Station

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The Scream – A favourite by Munch and recommended by friend Dinorah to see this popular painting. The Nasjonalmuseet for Kunst is free on Sundays

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Kulturhistorisk Museum Entry for Adults NOK90
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Kulturhistorisk Museum

Norway’s Hurtigruten – Voyage of a Lifetime

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As rain drizzled down I caught a glimpse of my abode for the next eleven nights. I clutched my camera for a picture, as I’d spent many days contemplating how I would cope in a ‘closet’ at sea. Hurtigruten did waive the single supplement on this particular journey and the necessity to find the ‘best deals’ were mandatory within my vocabulary.

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So what had attracted me to embark on a journey considered by many as a once in a life-time experience? I guess the fact I could enjoy being a traveller on a working ship whereby mail and cargo is delivered each day and its daily routine seemed rewarding in a humbling way.

Upon checking-in at Hurtigruten’s modern terminal in Bergen, I was handed my cabin’s key and offered my dining options. Dinner each night had two sittings both of which were a three-course sit-down affair. All cuisine being regional produce selected carefully by the Head Chef on each voyage was fresh and delectable. Each evening’s menu was displayed with aplomb on a podium outside the restaurant’s doors awaiting passenger’s entry. Although reindeer steak and fish mostly ruled the carte du jour, salmon was the predominant contender at breakfast, lunch and dinner – thought to be cheaper in Norway than any other meat and plentiful. No one complained.

The daily breakfast buffet presented a token brown cheese – obviously a Norwegian favourite along with brackish caviar, divine eggs, devilish fatty sausages; all of which just added to the already increasing cholesterol quagmire in my veins. Oh well I thought; it was for only 12 days and 11 nights. After all I am on holiday which qualifies me for such an obsessive intake of calories and walking onshore everyday; not just once but several times which gave me some reprieve as the ship pulled into the many ports as it loaded and off loaded its cargo and mail to Norway’s inhabitants. That is of course, if we can manage lifting our laden bodies up off our sedentary chairs near large outward-looking glass windows of which we seem to acclimatise too easily to, all the while watching the fork lifts busy as bees trying to ensure the ship departed on time. If you did not make it back it time after being ashore, then it was a case of you finding your own way to the next port to board.

At lunchtime the peculiar pale Norwegian cloudberries would appear, topped with heavy cream and were by far the most intriguing fruit on display. It’s a seasonal popcorn look-a-like with the added texture of mulberries but, without the dreaded tainted crimson dribbling unexpectedly onto your blouse. The flavour of this little starlet is as unique in itself as Norway is to the rest of the world.

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After almost continual eating, many of the onshore excursions had been pre-booked and arrangements were made with ground operators to facilitate. Being mid-season we were not lucky enough to encounter the dog sleigh rides as an option but there were plenty of opportunities to visit other local fascinating surroundings and fascinating activities.

On our second day, many locals were only in transit and disembarked at Trondheim – here the ship freed up much space for the ongoing starry-eyed passengers. Being a major port, the time allowed was sufficient to walk to the downtown ‘wooden’ city centre. A visit to Nidaros Cathedral, with ts flying-buttress stylised gothic architecture, exudes eerie darkness and a turbulent past. Even with sufficient lighting, there’s an expectation of cloaked shadowy figures about to appear mysteriously before your unbelieving eyes. It left me eyeing off the nearest exits.

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On day three, a competition was held to predict the time Nordnorge would cross the Arctic Circle the following morning. Our Cruise Director told us a story of a passenger who on a previous trip made GPS calculations, incorporating departure times and wind directions, only to be pipped by Granny who had picked the exact time based on her granddaughter’s birth date.

And what did the winner receive for their effort? They were christened by ‘visiting’ King Neptune that morning with a chalice of cold water – poured straight down the back of their collar… I was glad I didn’t win – even though a fancy bottle of liqueur was presented as a memento to warm up there afterwards.
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On day four, a visit to Tromso’s iceberg inspired Tromsdalen, known as the Arctic Cathedral is a angel-sent acoustically and offers a welcoming midnight Mass to packed audiences and followers. And then after, if you were feeling benevolent at the next port, there is Hammerfest with its Polar Bear Society whereby you can become a member to help preserve these magnificent snow-camouflaged bears. Entry to the exhibition is free to ship guests but a donation is encouraged.

Pushing along to Honningsvag, a shore excursion to North Cape which is the area the Norwegian Sea and part of the Atlantic Ocean meets at the Barents Sea. Being part of the Arctic Ocean, it gave us an unruly and wild greeting upon arrival. However the North Cape Museum once inside is much warmer and receptive and where you can send yourself a memorable postcard home from the northernmost point in Europe.

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On day seven, Kirkenes was our turnaround point and three hours was permitted for it to showcase its historical significance and heady past. Although not as vibrant as some of the other ports, admittedly a trip to the Russian border revealed soldiers who obligingly had their photograph taken with tourists. This is where east meets west amicably.

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Homeward bound, the already enchanted journey was becoming even more spectacular as what we’d seen as barren isolated land forms previously, were now being sprinkled and dusted with light snow. I felt sad for those who had left us here after only six nights.

That night the hostess for our ritualistic dinner in the evening divulged it was ideal weather conditions for those in pursuit of the Northern Lights. The prickly sleet coupled with dust particles and strong wind had all the ingredients of this sort-after magnetic light show. Satisfied I finished off my last spoonful of Yoghurt Pannacotta with marinated cherries and moseyed out. Suddenly one of our fellow passengers Barry who’d been out on deck was frantic as he’d caught sight of the long-awaited iridescent lights and beckoned to all. As I raced outside onto the deck my skirt and hair flew upwards and all was out of control. Whoosh! I tried hard to contain my floozy-like behaviour but it was to no avail.

The wind blustered from the south and as it was the direction we were heading, it was full on but exhilarating in a way I would never imagined I could embrace. Absolutely freezing cold, I had to race off momentarily to find a coat, scarf and beret to ensure I enjoyed seeing an image I may never see again.

At first sighting, I could see why this phenomenon was so magical to so many and if you weren’t aware of Aurora Borealis and what the heavenly skies were flaunting at the time, mesmerised you’d have thought the Angels had been sent to fetch you. And you’d have accepted graciously and willingly without hesitation … It was truly spectacular.

I thought about my earlier claustrophobic concerns, but all was quelled by the fact I could undertake all the activities on land or just hop off the ship and walk around as I wished within a given timeframe – this was just the outlet I needed. And besides, cabins are just for sleeping in aren’t they?

Sunset
Eventually the lights faded and the kindred elation could not be dampened for days afterwards. We would simply return to our viewing posts to relax and discuss. In fact, had the journey been any more relaxing we all may have slipped into a coma and simply dreamt about the lights.