Monthly Archives: July 2016

My Story … Naples to Sicily, Italy.

20151124_091625Unfortunately, there wasn’t a lot to report from Bari to Naples by train as the weather was inclement with very little photo opportunities and the outlook diminished somewhat. I know I could’ve flown to Sicily, but for me it’s about seeing the lay of the land and enjoying the rocking, rolling sojourn of a rail escapade.

However, this next post I’d penned mostly as a recount of my train journey last year from Naples onto Sicily.

For those who know me well, you will again read excepts from the Facebook Page ‘You Know You’re from Cowra  When…’ And, because Cowra was where my parents as ‘Displaced Persons’ had settled after arriving in Australia, I felt it was fitting to write about some of those insights. Firstly, they were at the Bonegilla Camp (like many others), and  they too had left war-ravaged Europe and mine embarked on their new life from the seaport of Napoli and the records show the Ship Nelly had arrived late November, 1949 into the Port of Melbourne, Victoria Australia.

Whilst I was standing here at Napoli Termini looking at the schedules, I’m pondering what life may have been like as post war-torn Europe tried to repatriate its peoples – most of whom would never return to their origin after leaving its shores hoping for a better life, leaving their families behind and facing an uncertain future.

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Königsberg (until 1946 officially: Königsberg in Preußen) Now Russia’s Kaliningrad it was the first opportunity we had access as part of a tour. Photo taken in 1997, and on this visit with my cousin Beine and Uncle Reinhard, we found the family farm of which the nearby township no longer exists of its old name – just like many other European places. Additionally, many country’s borders had changed after the war and of course, the division of Germany being the most evident.

This is my story, partly of my family’s early life in Australia, perhaps I’ll write more about it at a later stage … These are the excepts from my journey in November, 2015 of my thoughts and maybe one answer to Jean’s post. See below.

“On Facebook I’d read with interest Jean Eade’s post of ‘Town Revival’ with Cowra having been given as an example to the dwindling numbers of country towns.

What they seemed to have forgotten is the post-WWII immigration of the 1950s onwards – when towns such as Cowra swelled due to the then current Government’s slogan of ‘Populate or Perish’. There was an influx of new migrants who helped form the backbone and soul of this community’s psyche. In terms of multiculturalism, I believe Cowra was somewhat ahead of its time, considering the diversity, skills and cuisine offered to a small rural epicentre; of which they had to call their new homeland – for better or for worse.

After I boarded the train in Napoli (Naples, Italy) heading onto Sicily with a nine-hour trip ahead of me, it brought back a few memories of what it was like growing up with European parents who’d left their very own world from this Italian port.

20151124_093423On this sector of my trip, I was holding a Prima Class ticket and I knew that the train would eventually divide at some point, I’d then have to move to another carriage to ensure I ended up in the right destination. Once the conductor came along, he tried to explain reluctantly, but as luck would have it, I was seated next to an Italian Professor who spoke ‘good’ English and informed me when I needed to shift myself to another carriage.

20151124_134436Afterwards, we chatted and the Professor asked me, how many days would it take to sail by ship to Australia? Clearly he could see I couldn’t answer immediately as I had reflected when Mum talked about the journey from Napoli, Italy to Australia; going back then through the Suez Canal when it was still opened and then onto Melbourne, Australia. Even as of today, I don’t believe there are any passenger ships which solely cruise direct from Europe to Australia. Maybe he had me bemused – because I was awokened to the fact this was exactly what my parents and two older brothers did in the latter part of 1949; one of which who had to be ‘fattened up’ due to having rickets before being permitted the stamp of approval to travel. They embarked on a voyage to the southern hemisphere which was as foreign to them, as were they to Australians. And, not just by language or borders, but a whole new ‘she be right mate’ way of life.

20151124_122705The question of being asked how many days sailing, can only be described in my mind as, what would’ve it been like if sailing to Australia on a luxury cruise liner as opposed to a ship load of immigrants? They were about to become New Australians (as the Government then coined their status), trying to embrace their new ‘one-door opening and another closing’ ideology – not necessarily having a marvellous time for the duration of the voyage.

As many migrants with ‘Displaced Persons’ stamped in their passports, they took Australia as their new homeland and were dispersed to regional areas with no input or say as to where they might like to live. I remember asking Mum as a young teenager ‘why Cowra?’ and she’d said it was because the Government placed them where they thought relevent at the time after being processed in Bonegilla. Dad had to catch/kill rabbits in Gunnedah (due to plague proportions) for a period of time to pay for their passage and Mum stayed with the two boys at the Cowra Camp trying to learn English – along with all the others. However, Dad gained a job on the Railway and they then lived close to the Loco in a tent alongside with three other families until they’d saved enough money to buy land and build in town. (You may have noticed by now, rail is my preferred mode of travel …)

Anyway, I have given this some consideration over the years and I believe Cowra was in fact ahead of its time in regards to multiculturalism and acceptance. I feel, many of the nationalities bestowed upon Cowra made it one of the most diverse small European communities in Australia without maybe realising it at the time. Move aside Melbourne … We already knew what it took – with a population which was miniscule by comparison to this cosmopolitan city, we were entwined with a varied assortment of nationalities and a kindred neighbourhood-like spirit. Everyone seemed to ‘get on’ with life and held similar Christian values and judgements.

20151124_141915 (2)Anyway, having digressed from my travelling yarn, I eventually moved carriages earlier than I should’ve on my trip to Sicily ensuring I had plenty of time to do so. However, an older gentleman did the same as I and we ended up with our own cabins as most passengers left at Lemezia Termini, including the English-speaking Professor. This older man couldn’t speak English, nor I of Italian, but we struck a chord with a little bit of German. He’d never heard of Sydney, Australia. (It was a stark reminder that we as Australians are on a much smaller stage in this world than we think, even though we live in a big and lucky country of which others are at break-neck speeds to come and settle.)

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Our train was then prepared to be loaded onto the ferry for transportation for the 20-30 minute crossing from San Giovanni, which incidentally was a truly thought-provoking encounter. What if this was me sailing into unknown territory as a migrant? I don’t know the language for starters or customs, nor what lay ahead in terms of a home to live? How would I have been in a totally different environment trying to fit in if it had been me heading to say, this new land? Luckily I’m on holiday and just blogging along as I go.

Coleone family and mafia were still being spoken about by my new companion. My guardian, if I can call him that, looked out for me throughout the remaining five-hour journey to Palermo, even though I  understood he was alighting at Terminal 1 before me, his instructions were clear. However, once we arrived at San Giovanni, the train did indeed divide and importantly we were in our correct places at the time. He pulled out of his pocket a three-pronged key meant for carriages on different train services – not just in Europe (not unlike a wheel brace to look at) and he offered to lock my carriage door like his. I thought perhaps he was a retired train conductor with his precious spanner which would make us a little safer in a world full of materialistic people? Sometimes, you just think to yourself, maybe you’re in the lap of the Gods and you need to just trust in what’s before you. All what was in my suitcase – was it really all that important? Not at all. As long as I had my documents and something warm to wear, that’s all that really matters.

He and I meandered up to the top deck of the ferry after leaving the train’s compartment and then watched San Giovanni slowly disappear from our view. Certainly not something I’ve experienced before, but this elder had witnessed it many times and you could tell he was excited about going home to his family and something I admire greatly about the Italians – their sense of home and family.

20151124_151936It pelted down with hail as we glided past the seven metre-tall golden Madonna guarding the entrance of the port in all her glory looking out across the Strait of Messina. Once on land again at Messina and the train offloaded onto the tracks, it was again divided and separated with the rear-end carriages departing for Syracuse and the remainder of us continuing north to Palermo hugging the coastline.

20151124_155612 (2)So what’s the purpose of me writing this? I think it’s wonderful Cowra had/has a respect of its immigrants’ contributions towards the Australian way of life – be it food, culture, art and yet, its differences. I’m glad to have been a part of it, rather than as a young teenager asking Mum ‘why Cowra?’ I’m grateful my family assimilated into a country town which did embrace us and we had the opportunity of growing up there. Unfortunately I don’t have an answer for the dwindling numbers, but it’s not always easy when it comes to offering new opportunities to everyone who seek them. Hence, the reason many of us leave for the metropolis of city life and move on.”

Next stop Palermo, Sicily

 

Bari, Puglia – Italy

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Bari is the second most important economic centre of mainland Southern Italy after Naples and best known as a port and university city. It has a population of about 326,799 as of 2015.

I needn’t have been worried about Bari too much years ago,  it’s quite a cosmopolitan metropolis – so much to offer in terms of an endearing culture and interesting places to seek out.

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With the Basilica of Saint Nicholas, the Cathedral of San Sabino (1035–1171) being one of the main attractions; its architecture and central location make it one of the most popular.

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Even a visit to the cathedral doesn’t escape life’s everyday technology. Maybe one day they’ll have a App for Confession? That’ll save the ceiling from falling down on a few …

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Pope John Paul II – never to be forgotten and a lovely reminder of a great man.

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The Swabian Castle or Castello Svevo also known as Norman-Hohenstaufen Castle was built for Frederick II, is now within a major nightlife district and serves as a gallery for a variety of temporary exhibitions in the city.

20151122_133058To the south is the Murat quarter (erected by Joachim Murat), the modern heart of the city, which is laid out on a rectangular-grid plan with a promenade on the sea and the major shopping district (the via Sparano and via Argiro).

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Harbour is very calm and a plethora of fishing charters are on offer.

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Plenty of artistic works on display and fabulous shopping along the boulevard, especially duty free considering it’s a major sea port.

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Street art on building work sites is always acceptable.

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Cafes are full of coffee lovers and enthusiasts. Personally, I think Aussies are the best at making a fantastic flat white, but the Italians still have the upper hand for an exceptional espresso.

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Everywhere you go, there’s wonderful photographic opportunities.

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No shortage of attractions to keep you busy.

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Government buildings are well kept in the era they were constructed.

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No other country on the planet can build motor cycles like the Italians … All I want for Christmas is a Vespa!

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Yeah, wish it were me on the back of the motor bike! Vroom …

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A couple of days is not quite enough, my advice to anyone is to spend somewhat longer in Puglia as there’s so much to offer in terms of food and culture.

Back on the train and heading across Italy now for a one-night stay in Napoli before heading south again and onwards to Sicily by rail.

Bologna to Bari in Puglia, Italy

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You can now arrive at Bologna Central Station, thanks to high speed trains in half an hour from Florence, an hour from Milan, or an hour and a half from Venice. Why fly when in 2 ½ hours from Rome and you can arrive hassle free at the Terminus with excellent connections by bus as well. And now where I’m heading to, in just 5 hours and 45 minutes it’s Bari in the south of Italy.

As well here in Bologna, the Metropolitan Railway System is also connected to almost all the cities and provinces of Emilia Romagna.

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Trenitalia’s high-speed trains are called Alta Velocità (AV) and are broken down into three categories: Frecciarossa (“Red Arrow”), Frecciargente (“Silver Arrow”) and Frecciabianca (“White Arrow”). Frecciarossa trains are the fastest of these, reaching speeds of up to 190 MPH (300 km/h).

Italo’s high-speed trains are even faster, operating at speeds up to 220 MPH (360 km/h) and the network, which operates on a different set of rail lines, connects Turin, Milan, Venice, Padua, Bologna, Florence, Rome, Naples and Salerno. These routes make it possible to consider day trips from Milan to Rome or Rome to Naples despite the great distances. Italy’s high-speed trains help evoke the 19th century romance of rail travel, albeit at 21st-century speeds.

The AV train network connects Turin, Milan, Bologna, Florence, Rome, Naples and Salerno.

http://www.raileurope.com.au and http://www.railplus.com.au are two sites valuable for Australian travellers.

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Not too far out from Bologna, the scenery changes to the eastern coastline’s tributaries and extensive beach areas.

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Surprise! More vineyards along the way …

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Swimming areas are normally filled with tourists during the summer months, but now in November it’s changing and the weather’s just a little more inclement.

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Red wine has come from Puglia in profuse quantities and garnered the region a reputation for being a terrific source of “plonk” for a long time.

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Just on the outskirts and pondering what’s ahead.

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Years ago, Bari had me worried as it’s reputation may have been a bit tarnished, being a major thoroughfare with shipping and passengers arriving from many other parts of Europe, I was told it wasn’t a place a backpacker should spend too much time. Bit older and wiser now, I thought I’d give it a chance considering I’m travelling a little more gracefully …

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The metro system looks quite straight forward …

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The capital of Apulia and is now considered an important touristic destination within Puglia, Bari lies on a fertile coastal plain facing the Adriatic Sea and I’m keen to see more of it.