Korcula, Croatian Island Cruising with Katarina Lines.

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Next stop on the Split to Dubrovnik coastal voyage with Markan MV is the island of Korcula. Unlike its rock-star island brother of Hvar, it’s perhaps not as frequented by visitors alike. However, it’s quietness and low-key status is really appealing, far more intimate and again the locals are incredibly friendly.

Once inside the medieval walls, narrow streets are indicative of the antiquity Korcula has embraced in the past for its strategic location within the Adriatic Sea. Over many centuries, transient wanderers became settlers and of course, war became part of its history as many wanted to secure the island of Korcula for its own purposes. The imposing towers and architecture upon first sight, is a reminder the island wouldn’t be a pushover in the event of an attack.

A plethora of locally-made handicrafts are exquisite and of the highest quality. Umm, a small souvenir shouldn’t be too much to carry back home … surely?

It’s easily seen here upon arrival how the pecking order needs all watercraft to adhere to strict protocol,  particularly while docking in smaller harbours. Sidling up to one another for space saving in the harbour is common place along the Dalmatian Coast.

With the island of Korčula being the sixth-largest Adriatic island, stretching nearly 47 km in length, it’s easy to see why there needs to be a system due to the heavy demand in peak seasons.  Passengers walk between the open spaces of each ship to go onshore and enjoy the activities, food and surroundings.

Marco Polo’s birthplace is considered to be Venice but, according to some Croatian sources the exact date and place of birth are “archivally” unknown. The same sources also claimed the island of Curzola (today Korčula) as his possible birthplace.  Well, wherever he was born he certainly clocked up some kilometres in travelling the world whilst dealing with all kinds of merchandise.

An authoritative version of Marco Polo’s book The Travels of Marco Polo does not and cannot exist, for the early manuscripts differ significantly. The published editions of his book either rely on single manuscripts, blend multiple versions together.

Source: Wikipedia

Quiet coves and small sandy beaches dot the steep southern coast while the northern shore is flatter and more pebbly on the island. Its serenity is coupled with a time to reflect and here a need to keep an eye on the future – not too much happening at anytime which is a good thing. And if anything, I’d say Korcula is in excellent hands as mass tourism is not really evident here … yet.

People call the island ‘Little Dubrovnik’ because of its medieval squares, churches and palaces. There are numerous old stone buildings and fortresses (gradine) left behind by the Illyrians around 1,000 BC.

Shown here is St Peter’s Church (Crkva Svetog Petra) – This small Gothic church, dating from the 14th century, is one of the oldest in the Old Town.  The simple main facade is embellished with St Peter’s relief made by Bonino da Milano.

Bike riding and hiking are activities any visitor to the island might contemplate due to its quieter nature and beauty within the forestation and the island’s pathways.

Interestingly, Korkyra is connected to the legend of the beautiful nymph Kerkyra, daughter of Asop, God of Rivers. Poseidon the God of the Sea fell in love with her, kidnapped her and held her in captivity on the island.

Anyway, if it’s good enough for the Gods and Poseidon, I’ll be back for another visit without doubt!

Sunset at the end of the day is quite spectacular along the Dalmatian Coast and while cocktails are being set up on the Markan MV for our overnight sailing, we’re all savoring the idea of what could possibly top this off?

Next stop Tristenik and Dubrovnik.

Hvar, Croatian Island Cruising with Katarina Lines.

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Meet our crew of Markan MV. They looked after us over the few days we were sailing around some of the most beautiful islands in the Adriatic. The wonderful thing about small ship cruising is that we had the opportunity to acquaint ourselves with the people who matter the most whilst onboard – the crew. For safety, service and of course divine food and beverages. Beware! They know how to party as well…


First stop from Split with Katarina Line’s Markan MV is the sun-drenched island of Hvar, Croatia. It’s the longest island in the Adriatic and one of the sunniest which makes it a favourite for locals and international travellers throughout the year.

Whether you’ve been to Hvar once, twice or several times, it has a plausible view one cannot become tired of, especially if you intend staying on to enjoy the relaxed atmosphere rather than a day trip over from the mainland.

Local guides are instrumental in delivering first-hand knowledge of their beloved island. A tour around allows us an insight into the day-to-day livelihood of past and present inhabitants, as well as some historical sights and activities for all ages.

And yes, there’s lots to see and do here and we have our running shoes on to either take in as much of the island in the allowable time frame, or simply enjoy a cuppa and admire what the cafe set come here for – a sedentary break from the ho-hum daily grind.

A quickie prayer? Many diverse cultural groups visit the local religious establishments in Hvar for some reflective time out, which is not only for the die hards, but tourists arrive in droves to marvel the many historical edifices which are dotted around the island.

The most impressive building in Hvar is definitely the Cathedral of St. Stephen (in the distance), standing on the eastern side of the town square, at the far end of the Pjaca, where two parts of the town meet.  Here at the plaza where visitors and locals congregate for their daily intake of a coffee extraction or cuisine with an abundance of fish-inspired dishes, freshly caught on the day for consumption by the ever-hungry visitors.


Hvar is best known for being a party island and don’t be a dummy when it comes to being a fashionista in Hvar. Make sure you are comfortable and wear garments geared up for sun-soaked activities along with a good sun screen. Australians know what it’s like to be burnt to a crisp after being out in the sun – even for a very short time, so slip, slop, slap as we say, with a zinc-like safe guard and drink lots of water, not just grog when out having a fun time.


See that fantastic castle on the hill? A trek up there will satisfy your kilojoule/calorie intake for the day.

It’s actually the Spanish Fortress, or its local name Španjola and was built in the early 16th century. It holds a rich historical collection and is built on a 2,000-year-old remains of an Illyrian fortress. Still, the most memorable part of the walk around its walls is the view expanding over the city of Hvar and Pakleni islands.


The hill overlooking the town of Hvar is a magnificent viewpoint. From this point, you can look down on the town itself, watch the comings and goings in the harbour and pretend it’s your dosage of meditation for the day.

Photo courtesy of Erik Drien, Norway.


Start walking and take your time as it’s a long hike up past the beautiful park and further on up the hill.

Oh Erik, you’re coming back? Have a rest mate – water, coffee or a beer? Oh ok, beer of course! You’re Norwegian right?

Photo courtesy of Erik Drien, Norway.


And when you do catch your breath, have a seat and relax in the quaint surrounds of Hvar, you won’t be disappointed with the local hospitality either. Plants are always friendly too.


Every budding sleuth, crime novelist, detective and TV police drama writer – pay homage.

Ivan Vučetić, born July 20, 1858, is one of the lesser-known native sons of a country that produced the likes of Nikola Tesla. Yet he is the father of modern dactyloscopy — the analysis and classification of fingerprints. Vučetić’s legacy is honored in Croatia primarily with a bust in Hvar’s eponymous city, his birthplace.

So off we go onto the next stop which will be Korcula Island. Think a nana nap is in order.

Love surprises and fresh fish arrived in a parcel which looked very much like a dumpling. But, this delicious and tasty portion of melt-in-your-mouth marvel is to be savoured and washed down with an excellent Croatian wine.

Cruising the Croatia Coast from Split. Part One

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When you fly into Split in Croatia and you see the coastline from above, you instantly know the bucket-list cruise you’ve been wanting to do is about to become a reality. Resnik Airport being the international airport serves the city of Split 19 km away on the west side of Kaštela Bay.

Travelling by bus from the airport to the city centre costs about 40 Kunas (approximately A$8.50 one way per adult). It’s easy enough as the buses wait outside to the left after exiting the airport doors. Taxis are about 250 Kuna and private transfers are also available for about 35-45 Euro. Ensure you ask for the right bus in the direction you’re wanting to travel. The airport bus, (if that’s your choice) will take you directly to the main bus station in Split – which is next to the train station and right there at the port. Perfect if the first thing you intend to do is catch a ferry or bus to somewhere else.

It’s a small facility and the growing number of visitors each year has the authorities on notice to consider establishing a larger and more modern airport.

Now, meet my small luxury ship – MV Markan of which I’m going to share my trip over the next couple blog posts of this unforgettable voyage from Split to Dubrovnik – via some of the most scenic areas along the Dalmatian coastline. MV Markan was built in 2018 and is so shiny and new!

Various categories of small vessels including the MV Markan are bookable with Katarina Lines which happen to be the most well-known operator in Croatia. They can also organise land tours to coincide with the cruise options available.

Looking quite swish and comfy with a small number of cabins making the journey so much more intimate with other guests – knowing them much better than say an ocean liner. MV Marken has a maximum of 19 guests onboard whereby the service on offer is second to none.

MV Markan’s maiden voyage was in 2018. Some features include:
48.5 m length
8.8 m width
Sun deck 250 m2
7 to 9 crew members
19 guest cabins
9 VIP cabins with
Private balconies
2 double/twin
8 double/twin

Wifi being available throughout the ship makes it easy to connect with others, allowing them to be envious of your every port call along the way. Depending on the areas once out to sea, it may be a little touch and go on occasion. But that’s fine with me when you are wanting to disconnect for a while and simply enjoy the facilities, food and not to mention the views!

But, before we all head off for a marvellous expedition, it’s time to explore some more of Split with a city tour and a local guide – it’s always a must-do activity. Learning and understanding the history and architecture of this picturesque small city will have you surprised with just how much history is attached to its resume.

The promenade of Split is the main focal point when it comes to visitors wanting a sea view and seeking culinary delights to enhance that experience.

This view from the main thoroughfare and foreshore, the  main facade of the Palace’s intended use as the retirement residence of Diocletian, was built at the turn of the fourth century AD. Today it forms about half the old town and there’s numerous small boutique shops offering all kinds of goodies.

Anyway, you don’t always have to sit with hundreds of other tourists along the seaside, you can sometimes find a quaint family-owned business such as Kuharica (with their own Cook Book) who make traditional cuisine such as seafood and gnocchi. Here’s Lucy (Manager) and I inside the walls of the ‘palace’ and away from the hustle and bustle of the main-stream areas.

So many of the younger people particularly now in hospitality and tourism in Croatia speak superb fluent English … and  I’m truly grateful to them for their efforts. Lovely experiences such as being able to have a coffee here and a lively chat with Lucy divulging to me, what makes Split tick along as a destination.

Among the European cathedrals this one in Split finds its seat in the oldest building – the Mausoleum of the Roman Emperor Diocletian. Inside the cathedral, at the end of the second millennium, the history reconciles ancient pagan Christian Medieval and modern heritage. Mausoleum of the Emperor – persecutor of Christians becomes a cathedral in the 7th century where altars with relics of St Domnius and St Anastasius, martyrs were executed in the nearby Solin take an honorary place.

The Cathedral today is primarily a place of liturgy, with a millennium long continuity, best reflected in the Sunday mass and the renewed splendor of the procession on the St Domnius’s day – the day of Split’s patron saint.
Source: Split Tourism Board.

Anyway, there’s another ‘religion’ happening in Croatia. Game of Thrones has just opened its new store in Split for all those cult followers to make haste and grab some souvenirs.

Dubrovnik was the main filming location in Croatia for the King’s Landing, a fictional city in Game of Thrones, the famous television series based on the series of fantasy novels “A Song of Ice and Fire” and distributed by HBO.

At one of the entrances to the Palace, don’t miss testing your luck of making your wishes come true by touching the big toe of the grandiose statue of the Gregory of Nin, the work of the great Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović.

The big toe of this towering monument to the Croatian national hero has been worn down from years of superstitious rubbing I’m told. Umm I assumed it was good luck.

Anyway, I’m just hanging around in the warmth of the beaut sunlight on the far side of the promenade waiting for our departure on MV Markan later on. I didn’t have anyone rubbing my toes for luck!

Next blog post, cruising from Split to Hvar, part two.

Ladakh, North India

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Flying into Leh the Capital of Ladakh in the northern region of India is so spectacular and breath taking with terrific aerial views of the mountainous landscape. One of the main reasons to fly is that many of the roads are closed in the winter, also saving you a couple of days driving, therefore more time to enjoy in the surrounds of Ladakh.

There’s a plethora of airlines in India which fly to Leh from Delhi and it’s approximately 90 minutes flying time. When the weather is not ideal, you can expect delays and disruptions, ensure you go prepared and check your onward schedules/connections as they may be affected.

Ideally, include a side trip with the same carrier as your international ticket – this usually includes the same luggage allowance as a through fare and any delays should be re-accommodated by the ticketing airline.

Coming from Sydney, Air India with a stopover/transit in Delhi was ideal as this airline has the accessibility to fly into India’s International Terminals, even when travelling domestically within India – making a transfer onto other destinations seamless with a generous weight limit in economy class.

On the up side, driving allows you to acclimatise more easily to the higher altitudes of which you will encounter along the way.

After an early breakfast, we headed towards the Nubra Valley. The 140 kilometre trip takes  approximately 4 to 5 hours in a small tourist bus. Via Khardungla (18,380 feet), it’s best known as the Highest Motorable road in the World – perhaps not for the faint-hearted tourist, but it’s an experience you won’t regret… or forget.

This is the way to one of the most exciting and adventurous  destinations to visit in India.

We traversed the winding passage ways and it was comforting to come across an Oxygen Cafe-cum-Medical Centre which was opened by the Ladakh Rescue Centre in recent times.  It’s definitely a recommended stop en-route to recharge your batteries, toilet and cafe break. A great opportunity where you can exchange stories with other excited travellers.

The Nubra Valley which is not too far by distance from the Rescue Centre, is still some time away before our arrival there considering it’s an unsealed roadway. It’s obvious the roads are somewhat ‘one way’ in most parts and difficult to negotiate when passing oncoming vehicles – or worse – taking over!

No explanation needed … thanks Giovanni for keeping us on top of things!

Introducing you to the Nubra Valley.  A jaw-dropping spectacle of geographical magnificence.

Nubra is a tri-armed valley located to the north east of Ladakh Valley and Diskit is the capital which is about 150 kilometres north from Leh town. It’s a high-altitude cold desert with rare precipitation and scant vegetation. Needless to say, it’s quite a display of parched fascination.

If you’ve not seen a real live yak before, then understandably you might be just as frantic as us to secure a photo of this mammoth beast with the shag-pile coat.

Happy to have stayed at The Grand Dragon Ladakh, which is the only five-star property in this area boasting fabulous views of the mountains from almost every room.  A relaxed outdoor setting finished off each day of sightseeing with a few well-earned bevvies in hand.

Local markets are filled with fresh goodies with many seasonal vegetables available. All organic here.

Donkeys in the main tourist areas are immune to impatient drivers. After all, it’s been a hard day scouting for a bite to eat when there’s no one else to give you a hand out.

The way to the temples you ask? There’s no shortage of monasteries and temples in Ladakh, in fact I was starting to wonder if I was mistakenly in Tibet.

Thikse Gompa or Thikse Monastery is a gompa affiliated with the Gelug sect of Tibetan Buddhism. It’s located on top of a hill in Thiksey approximately 19 kilometres east of Leh.

The impressive complex has 12 stories and is built at an altitude of 3,600 metres (11,800 ft). A spiritual retreat with amazing natural surrounds and traditional Buddhist architecture.

Temples and monasteries are found in the most remote places like this one; perched up on a hill and many others which can be found are built on the side of a mountain.

Monks at the temples also take pleasure in spinning the prayer wheels.

A very international group we were and it’s always a treat when everyone’s a good sport.

Some Benefits of Travelling in a Tour Group
  • Someone to show you the way and given an in-depth commentary
  • Instant friends (well hopefully)
  • Safety if anything should go wrong
  • Combine a trip with friends/family and share costs
  • Reassurance for your family when away
  • Group discounts
  • See things you wouldn’t be able to usually

Looking through the window at the old Summer Palace, a 12 foot statue of Buddha oversees the valley.

At the end of the day, it was rewarding to have had the opportunity to visit one of the most interesting and humble destinations I’ve had the pleasure of experiencing – not just in India but on an international scale.  And yes, I’d return to Ladakh in a heartbeat!

Some good advice!

  • Information was correct at time of posting this blog and our visit took place at the end of September and early October, 2018. However, the weather can change overnight as seen in this photo of the Pass on our return.

Season (Months) Best Time and Way to Visit Leh (Ladakh) 1st April to Mid-May
  • Mid May to July. During this time, only the Srinagar-Leh highway opens up, this is just not the right occasion to visit
  • August to Mid-September
  • Mid-September to Mid-October
  • Mid October to Mid-November
  • Mid-November to March

Mumbai, India

Sub Continent, ,

Republic Day in India is the same date as Australia Day and I was a little astounded so many Indians actually knew this and wished me a happy day for my own country’s festivities.

Mumbai formerly known as Bombay is the capital city of the Indian state of Maharashtra. It’s the most populous city in India with an estimated city population of 22 million – the whole population of Australia could almost fit into it …

A group of worshippers graciously allowed me a photo of their routine. Republic Day is a festivity of religion, food and happiness for a nation which is so diverse in its own culture and independence.

So here I am back in Mumbai and as you can see the pedestrian is saying his daily prayers for religious purposes, only I’m about to say a prayer to cross the road safely.

Mumbai’s traffic is still the same as my last visit in 2005.  New infrastructure is being implemented slowly; mostly overhead due to the fact the city was built on reclaimed land and is difficult to negotiate. With a view to improve transportation and communication, the Government of Maharashtra and the Railway Ministry – along with financial assistance from the World Bank – they took on the Mumbai Urban Transport Project.

Victoria Terminus is an area with a thriving market which attracts locals and international visitors by the bus and train load.

The Terminus is walking distance to CMTS which offers only a handful of local areas a train service.

Traditional Indian cuisine is offered to the masses at a fraction of restaurant prices and perhaps better quality and flavour. To date,  I’ve yet to be ill from street food – incredibly I’ve had ‘Delhi Belly’ from eating in top-class establishments.

One piece of advice I’d been given years ago and before travelling to India, was to start eating yoghurt and food produced by bacterial fermentation of milk prior to arriving. The bacteria used to make yogurt known as yogurt cultures, allows the fermentation of lactose by these bacteria which produces lactic acid, it then acts on milk protein to give its texture and characteristic tart flavour. It assists in settling a tummy which may not be used to spicy hot foods.

Sometimes it’s a difficult choice when there’s so much variety on hand and it’s a sensory overload of wafting exotic aromas, bright colours and sounds of excitement abound.

Haircut anyone? Handy to know you can head off to the market and come go home looking cleaned up, refreshed and ready to watch the cricket.

Take your pick – chicken, beef or whatever? Vegetarians move on please.

Nothing like a free food waste collector to call by. A win/win for everyone. Cows are considered sacred by Hindus in India and the favourite animal of Lord Krishna. They serve as a symbol of wealth, strength and abundance. But, people who want to protect these creatures have to deal with those who think cows are a nuisance.

Do I want a smooch? You better watch out you’re not the next one on the menu.

Time to go back to the hotel after a day’s outing which also included Linking Road and Kurla. Certainly don’t think I’ll take the train again; even with a dedicated carriage for ‘Ladies’ I’d already been dumped onto the platform from the avalanche of passengers trying to alight the train. Yeah, yeah I know, stupid tourists always in the way.

At Kurla Station in east Mumbai, the market was a myriad of stall holders and there’s no shortage of food and goods on sale. Obviously, plenty of tuk tuks to take me home – rates vary and always pays to be a decent kind of negotiator in India.

While waiting for my ride, thought it’d be great to have a chat with a Police Officer about the area, only to receive more kick-ass comments about India thrashing Australia in the cricket at home just recently.

Better do some work whilst in Mumbai and who better to cross paths with but my mate Firoz of Perth Aussie Tours in Western Australia.

Direct flights from Australia are from Sydney and Melbourne to Delhi with Air India (AI). Connections are generally seamless as it’s only Air India and Jet Airways which have flights arriving/deparing into the international terminals of Delhi (main hub of AI) and Mumbai. Both airlines have a myriad of domestic flights throughout the countrry. Air India also allow a generous 30 kg on an international ticket issued with connecting domestic flights.

Stay tuned for some more blog posts of Incredible India!